I have been in the 'planned' city of Chandigarh for the last few days,
teaching in a school for graduate students. Chandigarh, as most educated
Indians have been taught, was designed by the architect
Le Corbusier who
was also responsible for various cities in Europe, Russian, North America
and South America. The planned part in this case implies
that the roads follows a Cartesian system of coordinates (nothing
particularly unique about that -- so does Manhattan, except where it
is broken by Broadway, and many other cities) which enclose identical sized
sectors which can be confusing to a first time visitor since many of
these sectors look completely identical. The other unnerving part is the
habit of the residents to refer to Sector XX as if that is all that is
needed for a visitor to find it. (I suppose that is true if you are
taking a taxi or rickshaw but not if you are planning to find it
yourself).
The first thing that strikes you when you reach Chandigarh is the
traffic or rather the lack of it. Wide roads and avenues, flanked by
trees and side walks where you can actually walk without being in danger
of either getting knocked down or fumigated, with the occasional car
zipping by is a familiar sight, totally alien from anything in any other
part of India. Coming from a city where it now takes me about 40 minutes
to traverse a distance of five and a half kilometers, this is as close
to heaven as it is possible to get without actually getting run over !
Delhi also has wide roads, but every inch of space is taken over by all
modes of transport. Which brings me to another aspect - auto rickshaws
are few and far between, I never saw a bus, and few two wheelers. So
here is my deeply thought out prescription for clearing Chennai roads --
remove MTC buses (ok, maybe keep 10 or 15), get rid of two wheelers (I
am dreaming already) and cancel the permits of all auto rickshaws (I am
drooling). Just cars and nothing else (perhaps pedestrians who are
confined to Chennai's non existent side walks). The ultimate dream city
of capitalist America (Los Angeles?) . How does it look?
And talking of cars, Chandigarh I am told has the highest standard of
living in the country. This means big cars with few Altos and Maruti
800's . On my first day here, I counted seven Honda City's in the
Physics Department parking lot in Panjab University (the rest were
Maruti SX4, Ford Ikons and so on). Very different from a standard
parking lot of an academic institution in the rest of the country.
Presumably people have secondary sources of income since academic
salaries are about the same everywhere. I also found out (yes, I like
getting such information!) that these were all four to five years old
which meant these were not the result of the largess of the sixth pay
commission!
The other surprise is that motorists are regularly fined for traffic
violations. This includes not wearing a seat belt, over speeding,
jumping lights and other such infractions. As a result, traffic here,
whatever there is of it is very organised and disciplined, and nobody
tries to jump a traffic light even at night when there are no other cars
at a traffic signal. (Am I really talking of an Indian city). The city
is also full of parks, rose gardens, (the University itself has one) the famous rock garden, lakes,
making quality of life distinctly a cut above the rest of the country.
The rock garden which most locals will tell you to visit is a concrete
monstrosity, a park made up of the detritus of an upcoming city full of
narrow tunnels with towering walls, the mandatory water fall and all
kinds of items salvaged from garbage dumps set in formation with
concrete. This is my second visit to the rock garden and I find
it impossibly claustrophobic, with all that tonnage of concrete giving it
a very hard and soulless character -- a three dimensional Jackson
Pollock piece gone wild. I realise that this is probably a minority
viewpoint but there you have it.
On the other hand the zoo, in the
outskirts of the city is a pleasant surprise. There is a lion safari, a
deer park and the usual collection of somewhat underfed lions, tigers,
jaguars, leopards and so on. But it's spread over a huge area and it's
easy to spend a couple of hours there, though I am told that the animal
collection used to be much better earlier. I also had my first Rainbow
Trout caught in the Beas at the 'Flamme Bois' in Sector 35B and it was
excellent.
So is this utopia where most of us would like to move. There you have me
-- one should perhaps ask those who live here -- including some of my
colleagues who moved here recently. My guess is that it would come as a
breath of fresh air (literally!) in the initial period. In the long run,
though, I wonder if one would miss the bustle of a standard Indian city,
the cultural life, the eating out places, the general chaotic richness
of an Indian urban landscape. I leave it to
readers of my post to comment. I am only a bird of passage, here for a
mere 10 days.